Tale of Two Solitudes.....aka Same Same but Different

From the foothills of the 13,000 ft Mt. Kenya to the lake district of the Rift Valley and Lakes Elmentita and Nakuru, the transition has been smooth and uplifting.  The contrasts are forever evident.  Whether the most dangerous Cape Buffalo to the innocent Thompson Gazelle or the screaming baboons at night to the chattering of birds in the early morning or the imposing rhinoceros to the tame and skittish Dick Dick, the opposites live in harmony and nature accommodates everyone and everything.

We are hosted on the banks of the beautiful Lake Elmentita and our afternoon drive introduces us to the thousands of pelicans and even more pink flamingos. The pelicans glide by while the flamingoes keep their necks down and beaks in the water in search in the unending activity of water feasting and grazing on nature’s plentiful buffet. We are able to exit the jeep as the zebras and Cape Buffalo are far enough away but we still have to be wary not to walk on the abundant supply of zebra and buffalo cow patties. The Lake is calm and it is the calcium or salt content of the water which attracts the flamingoes. Wild life is all around with too many species for me to remember but all are handsome and healthy if not a little dirty from rolling in the mud and dirt. That especially goes for the zebras and the Cape buffalo.

The next time you plan on having a bush breakfast, I would highly recommend this place. We are escorted down to our linen table setting, complete with armed guard as we are out of the confines of the camp property. Waiters and chefs are waiting for us with champagne and mimosas to start us off with a complete buffet and made to order omelettes to follow. The breeze is cool and the water is calm with the happy banter of our group chatting away when suddenly a shot rings out! A Cape Buffalo has been spotted and has been approaching from a distance. The camouflaged park ranger was taking no chances by firing a warning shot. The buffalo didn’t wait for a second warning and took off immediately. Back to breakfast as we watched a hippopotamus swimming near us but from a safe distance.

For those who are in denial of climate change, now I have seen it first hand from the revisiting of Lake Nakuru. When last here in 2011 the flamingos numbered into the thousands and none are left today. Salt water has been replaced by fresh water due to heavy rains in the rainy season. The river banks are now higher which is evidenced by the dead trees still standing in or in near proximity to the new lake shore level. However it is still a magical place with the ever present Water Bucks, Zebras, Baboons, fishing birds, and the occasionally spotted giraffe. Our sighting of the final Big Five was completed today with numerous sightings of the prehistoric rhinoceros. Imposing and not to be friendly with we kept our distance and let a group of six, nap while the hot Kenyan sun beats down on their grey and scrawny skin covering. Later we would see a gigantic rhino but kept our distance as she also had a young one following her along in close proximity. The view from a lookout point was spectacular but it was extremely hot in comparison to the lofty forest shade we had been experiencing at lake level. Jambo from Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp!!